Carnet de trip au pays des Berbères - Afrique

Auteur : Mango-surf

Quoi de plus agréable que de partir chercher le soleil au Maroc en plein hiver ? Cap sur Agadir et sa région, où les vagues d’Anchor Point n’attendent que nous…

Derniers plaisirs marocains

Taghazout © www.mango-surf.com + de photos

Samedi 23 janvier 2010, 18h50, Agadir

Le voyage se termine tranquillement sous le soleil. Court périple de huit petits jours, mais déjà de nombreux souvenirs et une vraie coupure avec notre hiver polaire !

Encore de belles sessions hier à Anchor Point, où les vagues ont un peu baissé en taille mais restent tout à fait sympa. Je crois que nous avons été très chanceux cette semaine, car cet après-midi, le vent s’est levé et avec l’on-shore, ça va être tout de suite beaucoup moins sympa ! Nous n’aurons même pas surfé à Panorama, juste en bas de la maison. Hier, c’était pourtant très cool, mais les débutants pullulent. Là aussi, c’est la chine. Incroyable comme les surfs camps se reproduisent vite à Taghazout !

Jeudi, nous avons découvert les plaisirs du hammam. Détente absolue avec le savon noir, le gommage et les massages relaxants. Nous avons passé près de 3 heures dans cet endroit plein de douceur et de tranquillité. De vrais pachas !

Puis, petite balade dans les rues d’Agadir, où l’on se fond au milieu des marocains. Ravis de marcher, de flâner entre les cafés, les taxis, les boutiques. Pas un touriste en vue dans ces ruelles (un exploit ici), juste des gens d’ici qui partagent un thé en terrasse et une mixité que l’on ne trouvait pas à Taghazout. Nous rejoignons ensuite la grande promenade de la plage et ses nombreux restaurants. Au loin, les inscriptions en arabe sur la colline nous rappellent où nous sommes. Mystique.

Vendredi, les voix du muezzin ont résonné longuement à Taghazout. Les prières se sont enchaînées toute la journée, les hommes ont revêtu une tunique blanche pour se rendre à la mosquée. Nous ne sommes pas musulmans, mais Allah a dû veiller sur nous, car nous avons été bien gâtés cette semaine.

Après une derrière balade à Aourir, une dernière session à la pointe et les dernières brochettes de kefta, nous revoilà à Agadir. Petits gâteaux aux amandes et thé à la menthe dégustés sur le boulevard Hassan II à la tombée de la nuit, un pur moment de bonheur ! Nous regardons les va-et-vient incessants des taxis rouges, des femmes aux babouches et voiles de toutes les couleurs, des hommes en costumes sombres.

Je regarde au loin et pense à toutes ces âmes ensevelies sous ce qu’on appelle l’ancien Talborjt. En 1960, un terrible séisme a ravagé Agadir et près de 18 000 personnes ont péri. Beaucoup ont dû être laissés sous les décombres, puis ensevelis vivants, faute de solution pour leur venir en aide. Horrible souvenir que porte en son sein cette ville aux contrastes saisissants.

Merci au Maroc pour tous ces bons moments, ces sessions mémorables et tous ces petits plaisirs simples. A présent, cap sur l’Algérie. Et qui sait peut-être des vagues vierges et perdues nous attendent…

Nos coups de cœur :

- La maison d’Abdallah au cœur de Taghazout et sa vue imprenable sur le spot de Panorama
- Le restaurant La Vague à Taghazout, où tous les sens sont en éveil
- La pâtisserie La Fontaine à Agadir et son choix incroyable de petits gâteaux divins
- Le restaurant Le Panoramic au cœur de la Vallée du Paradis pour ses délicieux tajines, salades marocaines et le meilleur pain du coin !
- Les vagues de la région qui méritent le détour. Et pas seulement Anchor point ;-)
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MailOnLine

All aboard for an epic surfing adventure in Morocco

By Donna Mcconnell
Last updated at 4:06 PM on 3rd May 2010

I’d always wanted to try surfing. And even Patrick Swayze and Keanu's big screen appearances in surfing film Point Break (an early Kathryn Bigelow movie) hadn’t put me off.

However having girlfriends for whom running in heels is about as sporty as it gets, I’d never quite managed to get around to it.

But in desperate need of a break, and having long tired of the annual seven days lying in the sun - only to come home with heat rash - I jumped at the opportunity to go on a week-long all-girls surfing trip to Morocco.

The Surf Sistas: Seven women of ages ranging from 20s to 40s had signed up for the all-women boutique surfing trip to Morocco

Not only would I be having a bonafide adventure, I would also be learning one of the coolest sports in the world – snowboarding apart – in the north African mecca.

Morocco has gained a reputation for having some of the best waves in the world, and Surf Sistas Surf Camp with Oakley is a week long boutique surf camp for beginners trip run by the Big Friday surf, who run weekend surf trips and surfari breaks abroad.

I was not alone in my desire to try the sport, as seven women of ages ranging from 20s to 40s had signed up for the trip, everyone travelling solo, and just as keen as me to get to grips with a long board.

So I chucked a few surfy things in my small case, and hopped on four hour flight to Agadir where I was met by the Surf Sistas driver.

Chilling: The surf sistas bonded over their love of the waves, and dislike of cold wet wetsuits

Banana Village where we were headed was in close proximity to an array of waves suitable for beginners and intermediates.

Right near the villa is Banana point, while the beach breaks of Devils Rock and Crocodiles are just around the corner to the North.

The village of Taghazout, is the epicentre of the surfing community in Morocco, and is home to the epic Anchor Point break.

That night I met my roommate Sabrina – all the rooms in the villa are twin beds – a Canadian MBA student - and we enjoyed a late supper. In the morning, it was straight off to pick up a wetsuit – boards and wetsuits can be hired at the surf villa -  a pilates session, and then off to the beach for our first lesson.

Surf Sista’s resident coach Natalie, a platinum blonde surf diva who manages the impossible feat of looking stunning in a wetsuit took us, mainly beginners, through the basics. After a brief explanation of our starting goals, we waded into the water and prepared to drink plenty of water.

The Morrocan coastline: Banana Village was in close proximity to an array of waves suitable for beginners and intermediates

With the wetsuit on, the shock of the cold water was greatly diminished, and it was certainly preferable being in Morocco. My original goal to stand up by the end of the week began to feel over-ambitious as I took one undignified fall after another. This continued for the next few days.

As well as testing your fitness to the limit, surfing also test your inner strength, as my initial goal to stand up on the board before the week is out appears to be somewhat out of reach.

Fortunately, the thrill of finally getting the chance to learn the sport overrides the initial teething problems. And taking lunch alfresco on a windswept beach patrolled by camels, horses and their owners provided picturesque compensation.

Western tourism hasn’t completely flooded the area, facilities at the beach are non-existent, with most stuff available sold by the enthusiastic beachside sellers. It was a job trying to convince them sometimes that a big juicy doughnut was not what I needed. Surf Sistas provide a healthy packed lunch, which after a couple hours failed attempts at surfing looked as appetising as any Michelin starred meal.

Catching waves: Morocco has become the north African destination for keen surfers

Changing into your wetsuit took place at the back of the minivan we travelled in once we had parked up. And at the end of a session it was quite a skill getting out of it without completely losing your bikini bottoms.

Natalie proved to be a brilliant teacher, and helped allay any of our fears. She provided tailored instruction, and took time to speak to and encourage all members of the group. Within hours I felt at home sliding onto the board and paddling out to catch bigger waves.

Villa Mandala: A stylish, traditionally furnished villa in the heart of a Berber village

And there was no urgency – apart from my own - about picking it up. Despite being a beginner most people in and out of the water were really encouraging. Even if you got in their way, as I did on a couple of occasions. And if it all got too much, breaking for lunch on the beach doubled up as an opportunity to catch some rays and relax.

Factor 50 sunscreen is in general advised to be worn on those places not covered by the wetsuit, or else you will end up with a tan on just your hands and face which once you’re out of the wetsuit looks rather silly.

And if you need any more persuading to give it a try, surfing is great for a bit of boy-spotting. And with many of them walking around with wetsuits stripped to their waist, let’s just say, the height of the waves was not the only thing I noticed on the beach!

Rather than the typical Spartan lodgings enjoyed by most wave-chasing surfers, we stayed in a stunning Moroccan boutique villa overlooking the ocean.

Villa Mandala which in the middle of a traditional Berber village, is decorated in traditional comfortable Moroccan style, with lots of soft furnishings and social areas. It is equipped with its own yoga/pilates studio, a traditional hammam – stone steam room - comfortable communal lounging areas, a dining area and even has its own traditional Bedouin tent complete with Shisha pipe in  which to chill out in in the evenings.

Being a Muslim country, alcohol cannot be bought in the village but you can bring your own duty free. And the villa has an honesty fridge stocked with beers, wine, and chocolate. Just add what you’ve taken to a tab.

Dinner was a communal affair cooked by the villa’s chef, and was usually a very tasty three course affair, a mixture of Western and local style dishes. And local restaurants are cheap, and portions plentiful.

Surf's down: The villa is equipped with its own yoga/pilates studio, a traditional hammam – stone steam room - and even has its own traditional Bedouin tent complete with Shisha pipe in  which to chill out in in the evenings

Midweek we dined out with the Big Friday surf group in Taghazout at pizza restaurant Le Spot. Cafe Florida across the road does delicious tagines, a Moroccan dish of meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot. Freshly cooked fish, and a local beverage, a milkshake made from Avocado and Figs, and traditional mint tea are also worth sampling.

Surfing has brought new trade to the village. Clothing shops have opened with one enterprising local branding his homegrown range with a surfer in traditional Moroccan garb which was the town’s must-have T-shirt and hoodie.  But it is a Muslim country and although it has relaxed somewhat, female travellers are advised to cover up arms and legs.

Each morning in preparation for a day on the water, Surf Sistas Pilates guru Amy Swanson led a morning Pilates session and another at the end of the day. To sooth our aching muscles we relaxed in the stone hammam which was stoked by hot coals, and enjoyed pre-dinner nibbles and wine, and chilled out by watching surf movies.

Surf guide 'Red' at Surf Maroc's villa: Surfing has brought new trade to the village. Clothing shops have opened up with local merchants creating their own branded leisure wear

The highlight of the week was a visit to the fishing village of Immesouane, home of the legendary right handed reef break. A two hour drive away, we stopped off en route to take pictures of the goats chilling in the trees, and see the marvellous sight of the Atlas mountains.

Having gained confidence over the week, all the surf sistas boldly paddled out deep as a group. One of the surf guides said to me ‘Don’t think about it, just get on the wave’.

And using that as my mantra I paddled out strong behind my surf coach, albeit with a couple of spills off the board and tried not to think about the fact that I was no longer able to stand up in the water.

All the surfers sat in a loose formation spread out all the water waiting for the wave to come along. And that was it my Keanu Reeves Point Break moment. I turned the board, paddled like hell... felt the swell of the wave behind me, tried to pop up, and then I fell. Again.